Kyoto City International Foundation Open House

We recently attended the Kyoto City International Foundation's (aka KOKOKA or Kyoto International Communication House) Open Day. Unfortunately a rainy day, they still had a great turn out. 

If you are unfamiliar with KOKOKA and intend to live in the Kyoto area, we highly recommend going by! Although not as welcoming as we think they want to be, it can be a great place for basic resources. They do have some staff who speak some English, offer low-cost, crash course Japanese, and immigration support. Here is a link to their website. 

Food from around the world lined the outside entry way to KOKOKA. 

Live music and other performances were held in the main hall of KOKOKA. There was an enthusiastic Irish violinist while we were were at the festival, and right before him an all female Eastern European flute troupe!  

Funky Japanese Stuff

Not surprisingly Japan is full of weird stuff. Just like in the movies and on t.v., people here just like things to be a bit funky. A recent freebie that some of the green tea (ocha) companies have been giving away, are these bottle socks. Most Japanese people do not carry water bottles, so the sleeves are meant for your disposable bottle of tea. They came in small bottle and large bottle sizes. Here are a few shots of the small bottle series. 

*The water bottle is by Takeya and it is awesome! If you are in the market for a glass water bottle, we highly recommend these. 

Tempura Yourself!

You have probably heard that Japan has a lot of unique restaurants. Although we have not done any of the really obscure places yet, a fun lunch or dinner outing can be had at one of the many do-it-yourself Tempura restaurants. The one we tried was in Yodobashi on the top floor. If you are from the states you will likely be floored by this dining experience. You are actually sitting at a table with a mini-deep fryer built into your table (hoping to god not to have an earthquake!). 

These restaurants are generally all you can eat, so be prepared to leave quite full.

Costco: the Japanese love it more than Americans

On a recent trip to Osaka (bad choice, we know) we decided to bail on Osaka and make our way over to Costco. We had heard that Costco membership cards were universal, so we thought what the heck, worse case scenario we just hop back on a train and head home.

A glimmer of Costco from the bus. 

To get to Costco from Kyoto or Osaka, you have to take a series of trains. It's pretty easy to get there, just be sure you have a bit of time and a planned out method to bring goodies back.
Thankfully for us, when we finally got to Costco and showed the two guys standing at the door (just like Costco back home) our membership card, they welcomed us and we walked in.

Just like back home, to get inside you grab a cart and have your card checked at the door. 

Both of us did a jaw drop the minute we walked in. It was just like walking into Costco in the states. Food court after you check out, pharmacy in the corner, and a vision center -just like back home. In addition, and sort of odd, all the major signs are in English. This was one thing we thought for sure would be different.

After doing a lap around the store, debating on what was most important for us to buy (we don't have a car so we can only buy what we can carry or put in a backpack). We decided it was probably best to eat at the Costco cafeteria -you know to really get the full Costco experience. This is one thing that is sort of a US/Japan blend. Many of the items are identical to back home (hotdogs, pizza, churros) and then some things are a little different. For instance, the soft serve was called "Hokaido soft cream", but looked just like soft serve. They also had bulgogi bakes instead of chicken/cheese bakes, but otherwise it was just like America. It was a lot of fun to watch people learn to use the soda fountain machine -from what we can tell, these are not very common in Japan, where most soda comes in bottles.

Seating was also insane. Families will take whole tables and stay for 30-40+ minutes eating everything on the menu. We have literally never seen anyone eat as much as we did at Costco Japan. We each ate a slice of cheese pizza and thought we would die (biggest meal in a while), while Japanese women half Meg's size would finish off a slice, a bulgogi bake (same giant size as in America) and then go for soft cream. People also park their carts as if parking a car to eat.

In actuality we really shouldn't be that surprised at home many people stayed to eat at Costco, as we learned on our way out to Osaka, "eating on the go" is about as bad as murdering someone on the street. You will receive looks of shame and disgust (literally, disgust) if you eat while standing, walking, or in public (and by public we mean anywhere that isn't your home or a restaurant). The best thing to do if you have to eat on the go is squat in an alley or at the very least as out of the way as possible.

Anyway, Costco was amazing. We ended up buying a huge Costco freezer bag to carry everything home. Including 4 pounds of grapes, Amy's bean burritos, guacamole, blueberries, raspberries, 4 giant pillows and two US-sized towels (and that wasn't even the whole list of things we carried home). As our temporary apartment came with the world's worst pillows (aka normal Japanese pillows) and two child-size towels, these were by far the best win from the trip. The whole way home, we received humorous laughs from Japanese adults who (I assume) thought we were crazy, and their children pointed and laughed likely thinking we were pillow-loving tourists. With shit eating grins plastered on our faces as we ran through the subway trying not to miss the train, who could blame them.

Here are a few more photos of a Costco adventure:

Take away pizza -really similar, but with seafood added (normal topping in Japan)

5+lb tiramisu 

Sampling is a little different in Japan. Well, different for people not Japanese. It's feels so normal now, but you line up and the sample woman will put your little sample in a cup or paper dish and hand it to you. There is no taking one from the try as you walk by, so you will see lines of people in the isles waiting for samples. This woman was giving samples of sparkling wine -also might be weird for some Costco visitors to see alcohol being sampled freely, but in Japan there are really lose restrictions on drinking (age limit is 20, on the streets drinking is totally ok, vending machines all over selling beer and shochu)  

Costco Christmas -in a country that doesn't celebrate Christmas or have much in the way of religion this is just really silly to see. People still had giant wreaths in their carts, and others were eyeing the tree lights and ornaments, possibly debating what they were for. Please note the giant nutcracker to the left -it's larger than most Japanese people. 

Cheese is really expensive in Japan, so to see full-size blocks was like hitting the jackpot. We couldn't help but bring home lots of cheese. 

I swear this is in Japan. 

Amerikamura: Osaka's version of America

We woke up last Saturday a little late. After an evening of drinking and quiet Kyoto-style debauchery, there was no way we were going to do anything too early. Instead, we chose to make our way over to Osaka around 1:00pm, with plans to visit Amerikamura (Osaka’s obscure version of America).

On the way over, we debated making it all the way to Kobe instead to see a baseball game. Thankfully, we made the wise decision to not spend what was left of our late-start day on the train, and just went to Osaka instead.

Osaka is an interesting place, or at least what we saw of it. Keep in mind that it was a poorly planned trip, where we just sort of got on and off the train, but Osaka is not our favorite city. A bit dirty, and really big, the city is polar opposite of Kyoto.

Osaka is also a much more liberal city than Kyoto. In Kyoto you will almost never see anyone wearing anything risqué and I (Meg) have gotten several dirty looks for wearing shirts that are cut remotely low (keep in mind that I don’t wear much in the way of risqué clothing, nothing see-through, no short skirts or shorts, and nothing low-cut by American standards –I dress like your typical androgynous college kid…even though I’m no longer in college or a kid). Anyways, in Osaka anything apparently goes clothing-wise. They even have an American Apparel…I mean porn store…I mean American Apparel…Hard to tell the difference sometimes. So it was shocking going from a month in conservative Kyoto to a day in wild Osaka. We saw more peek-a-boo butt cheeks and mid-drift tummies than I have seen in my lifetime.

Kev and Turfy the racehorse made a great pair

Entrance to a hotel...we are not sure why

Kitschy hotel in Osaka. Apparently for as tacky as this place looks, this style of cutesy hotel is actually pretty decent. 

Another classic English shirt..I mean I guess this wasn't isn't actually that bad "speaking-wise" it's really just the fact that it's like "Hey fatty, fatty, 2-by-4...go back to the kitchen"

The trademark of Amerikamura, the mini-statue of liberty

The streets here are also amazingly dirty in comparison to Kyoto (again this may have just been the areas we went to). We have heard from several people that Osaka is considered the dirty city of the three major cities (Tokyo and Kyoto being the other two). But between the disgusted facial expressions and not nice things to say, everyone seems to have been to Osaka at some point, so we took their warnings with a grain of salt.

We made our way over to Amerikamura to check it out, and it is definitely an experience. We aren’t completely sure what we experienced, as it is nothing like actual America, but it was worth checking out as you walk through to other more interesting things in Osaka.

We also tried conveyor belt sushi for the first time, and it was ok. We have definitely had way better sushi, but in a pinch this made for a decent lunch. 

No really, we actually found a Mexican this time

We were on the hunt for a good bit of Mexican food and planned to head up to Nijo Jo for the Tanabata festivities. Thankfully for us, there happened to be a small Mexican place called “La Jolla” about a block north, down a small alley. Thankfully they have a website, are located on Omiya Street (Omiya Dori), and you can find them on Google maps (a rarity in Kyoto).  

Three amazing veggie tacos! A bit abnosome, but that's ok! 

(and yes, that is real shredded cheese)

Although we found their website after finding their restaurant, the story behind the shop is really interesting. The owner, who is full-fledge Japanese, lived in La Jolla a few years ago, and came back to Japan with a plan to replicate some of his favorite La Jolla memories: surfing and Mexican food.

When we arrived at the tiny restaurant, we found little bike parking. Thankfully, on a side alley anything goes in regards to bike parking, so we posted our bikes up as close to the buildings as we could and went inside. The interior is a bit of an eclectic mix, a little Japan, a little California, a whole lot of South West and Mexican.

Despite the classic Americana décor, the food was to die for by Kyoto standards and the actual Mexican waiter was a nice touch. A young guy studying to get his MBA at Kyoto University, the waiter was actually from Mexico!

At prices similar to what you see in the states ($3.50 for a taco) we really couldn’t complain. The nachos were amazing, and even had a dollop of real sour cream!

*abnosome, abnormal in a cool way

The ever-popular Tosuiro

Although there are many options when it comes to tofu restaurants in Kyoto (like hundreds). We had heard really great things about Tosuiro, and with our trusty friend H-san were able to make a reservation.

We went a few days ago, and it is definitely a pretty "Japanesey" experience. The interior is traditional floor seating on tatomi mats, with a small "sushi" bar (they don't actually serve much in the way of sushi, just a bit of sashimi (sliced, raw fish). During the summer, they also have outdoor dining on the patio, overlooking the Kamagawa (Kamo river).

The menu is set options (9-11 "courses") and a small a la carte menu. The set menus run from about $40-$60, which in Japan is pretty standard, if not on the cheap side. They do have most of the menu translated into English, but like most places the English menu is not the full menu.

Although some courses were amazing (their plain tofu is quite good, and all you can eat) others were (even by Japanese standards) not great. So although the majority rule on this place is 4/5 (tripadvisor) we would likely be more inclined to give it a 2.5/5. We are pretty sure the food is seasonal, so the time of year you go may determine how good it is? Or perhaps the menu changes every few nights -either way, our first trip was not the 4/5 we heard about.

The service and staff were, as is not surprising in Japan, exceptional. They were warm and welcoming and even attempted to speak quite a bit of English to us.

Here are a few shots of some of the food!

Octopus, yuba (tofu), and fish sashimi 

Tempura hamo (eel-like fish) and veggies. The white ball is radish for the shoyu (soy sauce)

Another Tempura option (a different menu set) that came with really yummy umeshu salt instead of shoyu. 

A tofu steak, topped with tomato, green mochi, corn, and some sort of sauce.

All-you-can-eat tofu. At your request they will come over and scoop you more of the wheel. 

The dinner finished off with a tasty ball of homemade lemon and soy sorbet and tea! 

We found the Mexican

Yes, you heard us correctly: We found the Mexican...food, that is. At a local (we think) underground bar called Den En, you can get Nachos and quesadillas! Although they do put pork or ham in the quesadilla, you can with just a little Japanese (or a solid finger "x") get them to leave it off.

To be honest the nachos are sort of Mexican-Italian...tomatoes are uncommon here so they use what tastes sort of like italian seasoning stewed tomatoes, but whatever they tasted like Mexican food!

There really isn't much to say about this...we just couldn't believe it and wanted to share. Den En is across the street from the Hub (a british style chain restaurant, similar to Applebee's). They have an "all you can drink" menu, that can either be all beer or all cocktails and the food is very cheap!

While we were there it was us and several groups of twenty-something Japanese people.

We came, we browsed, we left empty handed...Kamigamo Shrine Market

Probably the only people to leave the market empty handed, the Kamigamo shrine market is vast and for the serious shopper. With vendors selling everything from indian curry to canvas bags and jewelry, this market has it all when it comes to handicrafts. Our leaving empty handed was definitely not due to the lack of quality or options -we just really didn't know what the heck to purchase!

The market was so large (and it was so stinking hot out) that we didn't even manage to make it to the actual shrine for more than a minute. The closest we got was checking out this guy:

For many people the market is a day trip. There were families with tents, people having picnics in the shade, lots of kids and adults playing in the river. Overall this is a great shrine and market if you are just looking for a cool place to chill out for the day.

Although not listed anywhere for this coming month (August), next time it comes around we will be sure to go again!

 A couple photos of the Kamigamo Shrine area:

 One last picture! This is (we think) a dead cicada...They are by far the loudest creature (human or otherwise) in Kyoto right now.